Tis the season for a new build….this time around I really wanted to focus on the details. On that note..should something be amiss, or look off, feel free to voice your opinion. Like all great creations…even a master faults & misses something that another eye can pick up (I imply not a thing here b/c I am far from a master – but more often than not I’m focused on one important detail in my mind & miss another in the process)
Anyone can build a computer, but what I am going for is a showpiece. I have spared no expense on the quality of parts (with the exception of cheaping out on the power supply… something that I paid the price for….deeply regret…&….something I will never do again) It is a shame that i did not go w/ the silverstone all along; I would have saved my hands quite a thrashing.
Quite a few of parts have been sitting collecting dust for longer that I would like to admit. Finding time is more difficult that one can imagine. Quite a bit of this will be worked on over xmas (when I have a day or 2 away from the office) & commencing again (if necessary) in Feb ’09 after 1099’s go out (I’m an acct/it mgr for a law firm) time is never on my side – EVER
first & foremost everything in the case short of the motherboard/v-cards & blocks will be painted black - I wanted an automotive themed build I am a huge Porsche Enthusiast & I wanted in some way shape or form to incorporate a few things auto….along the same lines of the Porsche Design…an auto feel/look from a non automotive object
For me that means something with some chrome, black metal & some carbon fiber…..well…hell…A LOT of carbon fiber…but that was pretty much out. It would look a bit tacky imo (though I would not turn down an all carbon caseAfter purchasing (10) .2mm 9.7†x 12†sheets of real carbon fiber 4 months ago, I slowly started seeing more & more sheets return to the box I keep them in b/c it just did not look right. There will be a few accents of real carbon
I did however start out with one of the best cases for water cooling with some nifty wheels already affixed. So…all is not lost with the auto theme…I’m already off to a great start since it can already roll freely & has a built in “emergency brakeâ€
I have had some great experiences using thermal electric cooling on the cpu. This build I wanted to incorporate a TEC system for the cpu, v-cards & entire motherboard
(I later found out that cooling the southbridge was not going to happen w/ the innovatek block that came with the black pearl, so I have decided to just use a fan)I did not like the way the blocks looked that did fit (not that I like the fan option one bit) but routing another hose to that block (SB) would disturb a flow of tubes I have already created in my head & we cannot have that!
I will be using a Lian Li PC-V2000B Plus II as the foundation due to the great deal of space afforded & top it off w/ a 4 fan Koolance shroud (thank you for the clearance info Gone Cruising – no rad up there for now…but…you never know).
After spending a great deal of time on
www.extremesystems.org I came across a Lian Li V2000 & v1000 thread
www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=154982 which sent my brain to overload. There are so many great cpu systems in this one thread.
I devised a plan of attack, which brings me to the details.
The plan calls for 2 loops – one for the CPU->NB->MOSFETS & the second for the video cards each of which chilled by a hybrid CoolIt Freezone
The grocery list seems to be never ending…there are so many little bits & pieces As follows:
Lian Li PC-V2000B Plus II
EVGA 680i Black Pearl
(2) EVGA 9800GX2’s
(2) EK 9800GX2 Nickel Blocks
Intel E8400 E0 stepping – recently benched in a 780i FTW 4.5 @ 1.27v
service.futuremark.com/compare?3dmv=466655
CORSAIR DOMINATOR 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 w/ ram fan
Plextor PX-755SA
WD Raptor X 150
Icy Dock 3 Bay hot swap cage
Antec Quattro TPQ-1000 1000W PS
SCRAPPED FOR A SILVERSTONE ZEUS 1200W
(it is 3 now....) Coolit Freezone Thermal Electric Coolers
(2) Feser XChanger 360's
Danger Den Black Ice Extreme 120.1 THIS HAS BEEN AXED TOO
Koolance 4 Fan Shroud
2 x MurderMod MDPC-X Psychopacks (i used one on the antec power supply i ditched & got a second for the new Silverstone Zeus)
(10) Sheets of Hayame real carbon fiber (.2mm thick w/ adhesive backing 9.7†x 12†sheets)
(2) Scythe Kaze Master Fan Controllers
(5) Enermax Magma 120mm x 25mm Twister Red & Back Fans (for the shroud on top & one for the bottom coolit freezone)
(7) Scythe Ultra Kaze 120mm x 38mm 3000RPM fans (6 for the Feser rad's - one for the freezone in the top portion of the case in the lian li 3x5.25)
many feet of 18AWG Stranded Hook Up Wire UL Approved - Black
1 x Logisys Remote Control Molex Connector Kit (RM01)
a few USB/KK Header Connector 1 X 2's
3 x Dual LED - Pre-wired with Connector - 5mm - White
30 x Lian Li Anodized Thumbscrews M3 Size (1) - Black
30 x black fan screws
50 ft of red & 50 ft of black 26g
100 ft of 22g
30 ft 0.375 (3/8") Chrome Cable Sleeving (just going to use a few feet)
Lian Li Solid Aluminum Black Anodized Casters (wheels!) to replace the oem silver ones
Logisys 12" 12V LED Light Strip - White (may get a few more - i like these things)
White Illuminated Bulgin Vandal Switch - Black Housing w/ Ring Illumination
(2) NMB / Panaflo 80mm x 15mm Fan (3106KL-04W-B50-C00) (for the rear bottom of the case)
Lian Li PC-343B 3 X 5.25" Fan Module with Mesh Front and Filter
15 ft of Slim C-Strip Fan/Window Molding - Black (not going to need it all obviously)
(2) A.C. Ryan MeshxPanelâ„¢ Modder's Mesh sheets - Black (ACR-XP0748)
FrozenCPU Noise Dampening Material
TONS-O-Various Koolance compression swiveling fittings/adaptors/elbows
20 feet of NORPRENE TUBING (3/8" OD; 1/4" ID; BEND RADIUS 7/8" MIN) (I got extra for a blackbird project that i will be working on)
A bunch of various sized rubber grommets
Top Shelf LED controller
Silverstone SST-CLEARCMOS reset button
100 black pop rivets (all will be replaced to black)
12 120mm rubber black gaskets/vibration absorbers (2 extra for the LochnessMounsta's build)
5 sets of koolance quick disconnects (for removing the v-cards easily & also to remove the board) i want to be able to swap out set ups without ripping hair out of mt head
a few Hammond boxes to raise the rad above floor level & hide a few things
& a ton of blood & tears (hopefully there will be little use for the Kleenex box – I know the band aids will be on ready)
A special delivery from Barry @ Coolit:
TY you again for the speeding shipping!
3 freezone’s, some neoprene, & a MTEC controller
Well…lets start w/ taking apart the CoolIt Systems Freezone:
I used a blow dryer to heat up the adhesive to remove the face plate – I will not be needing any them – it makes for easier disassembly as well
There is a small screw that needs to be removed to drain & fill the system – it is located on the pump & requires an allen key
To remove the clamps that are on the system you need a small pair of metal cutters & pry the clamp back away
be sure to note the send & return – the “A†side is the send & the “B†side is the return
or when you are looking @ your freesone, the flow of the system is TEC, pump, block, TEC
after draining & getting flipping the system forward & backward (antifreeze likes to hide in the system) seal off the connections w/ some masking tape till you are ready to move forward w/ some toobage
also…be sure to note (or even better still) mark w/ some tape the send & return of the pump too
(be sure to use distilled h20 to clean out any bits that may be in any blocks/rads you are adding prior to starting the process)
you can order extra neoprene & clamps from Coolit – they sell kits just for taking these apart (well – that is prop not true – they were prob designed for the Boreas barebones kit)
either way…be sure to get at the VERY least some clamps before you jump in – the neoprene is better for closed loop systems b/c it will not loose liquid over time like tygon does – so…it is better to pay now to play rather than find that you are down quite a bit of coolant & your chip is dead
this initial loop you are seeing was changed after I got the toobage from Barry – I used the some extra tygon I had laying around just for testing purposes
after attaching all necessary tubes/clamps/compression fittings:
it is time to start filling the loop
the only nice thing about the tygon is that you can see where there are bubbles
not a big deal though…
after opening the pump screw fill port, use a syringe like this to fill the liquid in w/:
www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?prod...amp;cat=0&page=1
I slowly added a mixture of distilled h20 & Prestone low tox 4:1
You really do not need more than that unless you will be shipping your system to Canada or Chicago in the winter – the end result is to keep the liquid from freezing in transport & for its anti-corrosive properties
I have a little secret sauce I will be adding later on which should drop the temps even further by allowing for better absorption of the heat
All you have to do is hook up all power connections needed (like to the PCB & pump) connect the green wire & adjacent black (ground) wire from your power supply 24pin atx connector w/ a piece of wire, plug in the Power supply, & fill the pump as much as you can – hold it in the air when you are doing the process. Seal it back up after it appears full, turn the power supply on for a sec & turn it off…open the port back up – fill a little more, & repeat over & over till you can fill it no more….best bet is after you reach this point…let it run for 20 min or so…then check it again…same thing in about 1 hr & then…let her rip for 24hrs & check for leaks
After the 24hrs, check the fill port again – if need be – put some more fluid in
I added a DangerDen 120.1 rad inline after it hits the cpu block (this has since been changed)
initial temps on the blocks (cpu/nb/v-reg/DDrad)
plenty more to come….i need to take out my dogs